The drape of linen fabrics treating the bottom of a garment

The paper analyses the drape of linen fabrics treating the bottom of a garment in different ways characteristic of skirts, dresses and other garments this feature is relevant to. For research linen fabric was selected. This fabric is fashionable, features good hygienic properties; from linen fabric many light clothes for summer wear are sewn. However, the linen fabric itself is quite rigid and in order to obtain the appropriate fabric drape in a garment, both properties of the fabric and various technological factors of the sewing process shall be evaluated. The influence of bottom treatment on fabric drape in a garment is especially relevant to short skirts and dresses. In order to establish drape, two techniques were applied. It was obtained that different treatment of the garment bottom has different influence on fabric drape in a garment. Taking into account hem seams, when the process of garment design targets at a garment with particular drape, the best way is to choose the first method of bottom treatment when the bottom of a test sample is stitched by a three-thread edge stitching machine, bent by 20 mm and stitched by a one-needle lockstitch sewing machine at a distance of 5 mm from the edge. This could be applied for dresses and skirts with good drape. If it is desired to obtain rigid bottom of a garment, the fifth method of bottom treatment is recommended: in this case, the bottom of a test sample is bent by 3 mm, then it is bent once again by 5 mm and stitched at a distance of 2 mm from the edge.