INFLUENCE OF WOOL AND BLENDED FABRICS FORMABILITY ON CLOTHING MAKING UP

Textile materials are subjected, during processing in clothing making up or during wear, to other loads than tensile forces. Buckling is particularly important in garment production applications. After the beginning of eighties, it happened a strong movement in order to study the behaviour of fabrics when subjected to a different kind of small mechanical solicitations, namely through the FAST system. The formability of a fabric represents the compression ability of its constituting elements, in the fabric plane, without forming wrinkles - buckling. The adaptability of fabric yams to the new positions depends on the fabric extensibility and the wrinkling propensity is a function of its bending rigidity. The objective of this study is to correlate the "formability" property with the fabrics structural characteristics, in order to find the best statistical models that explain the fabric behaviour in clothing making up, wear and ability to reach the 3-dimensional shape.