DRESS AS A SIGN OF FEMININE IDENTITY

This article examines dress and makeup as a code and as a sign of identity in theater and fashion in the seventeenth century and today. The study uses the historical and logical method. For the seventeenth century, we analyze examples of "dress for love" in the work of Lope de Vega and "dress to save honor" in the work of Calderon de la Barca. The second part of the article addresses makeup in the XXI century as a sign of and disguise of identity. The results verify the differences and similarities between the two periods and the two codes. Femininity in the Golden Age is embodied in the costume of the woman, who should dress as a man to travel, to take charge of her life, to study, or to save her honor. The discussion focuses on the fact that socially permissible behavior for a woman is strongly linked to her dress and makeup.