FORTIFICATION OF FACIAL SKIN COLLAGEN EFFICACY BY COMBINED ASCORBYL PALMITATE AND SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE

Skin care products specifically formulated for the purpose of hydrating skin by increasing collagen efficacy required to contain hydrophobic or hydrophilic antioxidants with the aim of maintaining the hydration status of the horny layer. Ascorbyl palmitate (AP) and sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) are reported as lipophilic and hydrophilic antioxidants, respectively, used for skin care. Present study was aimed to assess the combined AP (in oil phase) and SAP (in aqueous phase) of a multiple emulsion (ME) for fortifying the facial skin collagen efficacy in healthy human females. Active formulation ME was applied to left and a control-placebo on the right side of face of female volunteers over 12-weeks treatment study. Instrumental measurements, Coneometer (R) CM825, Elastometer (R) E25 and Visioscan (R) VC 98 with a sole UVA-light video camera were carried out for skin hydration, skin elasticity and SELS parameters (roughness (SEr), scaliness (SEsc), smoothness (SEsm) and wrinkling (SEw), respectively, at baseline visit and on each subsequent visit at specific time intervals. Combined AP and SAP of ME enhanced stratum comeum moisture content (25%). skin elasticity (10%) and SELS parameters i.e. SEr (-5%), SEsc (-12%), SEsm (+9%) and SEw (-9%) after a period of 12-weeks when equated with baseline values. In conclusion, combined treatment with lipophilic and hydrophilic combination of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate in a single formulation (ME) presented superior results in improving skin moisture, elasticity and SELS parameters, thus provided a way to enhance the facial skin collagen efficacy.