Kochkase is a cheese traditionally produced from raw milk. The use of raw milk is preferred by consumers, but presents some safety concerns. This study investigated the microbial growth during the ripening stage of kochkase, made from raw and pasteurised milk, at different temperatures (15, 25 and 35 degrees C). The growth of lactic acid bacteria, aerobic mesophilic bacteria and yeasts and moulds was analysed and predicted according to the Baranyi and Roberts model. Ripening at 15 degrees C maximised the ratio between the growth of desirable (lactic acid bacteria) and undesirable groups of microorganisms. Finally, the cooking step reduced the microbial count for both cheeses made, improving safety. The results represent an important step toward better understanding properties and safety aspects of kochkase, and they indicate that the effect of the cooking process can be similar to that of pasteurisation, ensuring product safety when good manufacturing practices are adopted. (C) 2020 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.