Innovations in cellulosic fibres derived from recycled textile and clothing waste

Brands and retailers are under immense pressure to provide textile and apparel products which are environmentally sustainable. At the same time, there is an urgent need to reduce the amount of waste generated by the fashion industry—which is estimated at 92 mn tons a year. One way of addressing these two key challenges is to make cellulosic fibres from materials derived from textile waste—not least because such fibres are biodegradable and are therefore considered to be more environmentally sustainable than synthetic fibres. Furthermore, such fibres can themselves be used as feedstocks in recycling processes when the textiles and garments which incorporate them have reached the ends of their useful lives, thereby contributing towards the development of a circular economy. Some start-up companies have been quick to recognise the commercial potential for making cellulosic fibres from textile waste, and have made quick progress in developing innovative technologies in this area. Furthermore, a number of high profile initiatives have been established recently to accelerate developments in this field and to promote collaboration. A number of start-up companies—including Evrnu, Renewcell and Worn Again Technologies—have each developed ways of recovering cellulose from textile waste for use in the manufacture of pulp. This pulp can then be used to make existing types of cellulosic fibres such as viscose or lyocell. Meanwhile, other companies, such as Infinited Fiber Company and Spinnova, have developed processes for using cellulose recovered from textile waste to make new types of cellulosic fibres. Each of these companies has secured significant funds from investors and major apparel brands in order to support the scaling-up of their operations. They have also formed high profile partnerships in order to showcase their technologies. Some, such as Infinited Fiber Company, Renewcell and Spinnova, are on the cusp of commercialisation, and are set for an exciting year in 2021. © Textiles Intelligence Limited 2021.