Infragravity wave;
Mean water level;
Permeable fringing reef;
Irregular wave;
NHWAVE;
SET-UP;
WATER LEVELS;
CORAL-REEF;
RUN-UP;
FLOW;
TRANSFORMATION;
MODEL;
ATOLL;
ISLANDS;
MOTIONS;
D O I:
10.1016/j.csr.2024.105212
中图分类号:
P7 [海洋学];
学科分类号:
0707 ;
摘要:
In tropical and subtropical coastal regions, coral reefs are abundant and play a vital role in maintaining ecosystem balance. Additionally, they effectively dissipate a significant amount of wave energy that propagates from the open sea towards the coastline, providing coastal areas with protection against wave impacts. Consequently, numerous scholars have conducted extensive research to investigate the hydrodynamic characteristics of wave propagation and transformation over coral reef topography. However, previous studies have often simplified the bottom boundary of coral reefs as impermeable layers, neglecting the fact that the coral reef consists of a permeable canopy structure in the actual marine environment. To fill the knowledge gap of previous research, this study is based on the Non-Hydrostatic Wave Model Solver (NHWAVE) to numerically simulate the propagation process of random waves over permeable coral fringing reefs. The study takes a comprehensive approach by considering the influences of various factors on the hydrodynamic characteristics of random waves over the fringing reef, including incident wave height, reef-flat water depth, peak wave period, permeable layer thickness, permeable layer porosity, and median diameter of the permeable layer. This paper focuses primarily on analyzing the variations in sea-swell wave height (HSS), infragravity wave height (HIG), and mean water level (MWL) along the fringing reef, while conducting a comparative analysis between fringing reefs with a permeable layer and impermeable fringing reefs. The findings reveal that the presence of a permeable layer reduces the shallow water deformation of waves on the fore-reef slope and mitigates the wave-breaking phenomenon near the reef edge, thereby significantly reducing the sea-swell wave height (HSS), infragravity wave height (HIG), and wave setup on the reef-flat. Furthermore, the permeable layer's existence also leads to a decrease in the maximum wave run-up height on the back-reef slope. The research findings of this study can further enhance our understanding of the hydrodynamic characteristics of infragravity waves over fringing reefs, which is significant for studying the impact of random waves on coastal areas and understanding the protective mechanisms of coral reefs in coastal regions.
机构:
Univ Western Australia, Sch Earth & Environm, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia
Univ Western Australia, UWA Oceans Inst, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia
Deltares, Dept ZKS, Delft, Netherlands
Deltares, Dept HYE, Delft, Netherlands
Delft Univ Technol, Fac Civil Engn & Geosci, Sect Hydraul Engn, Delft, NetherlandsUniv Western Australia, Sch Earth & Environm, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia
Pomeroy, Andrew
Lowe, Ryan
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机构:
Univ Western Australia, Sch Earth & Environm, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia
Univ Western Australia, UWA Oceans Inst, Crawley, WA 6009, AustraliaUniv Western Australia, Sch Earth & Environm, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia
Lowe, Ryan
Symonds, Graham
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机构:
CSIRO, Wealth Oceans Flagship, Ctr Australian Weather & Climate Res, Wembley, WA, AustraliaUniv Western Australia, Sch Earth & Environm, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia
Symonds, Graham
Van Dongeren, Ap
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机构:
Deltares, Dept ZKS, Delft, Netherlands
Deltares, Dept HYE, Delft, NetherlandsUniv Western Australia, Sch Earth & Environm, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia
Van Dongeren, Ap
Moore, Christine
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机构:
Stanford Univ, Dept Civil & Environm Engn, Stanford, CA 94305 USAUniv Western Australia, Sch Earth & Environm, Crawley, WA 6009, Australia
机构:
School of Civil Engineering and Architecture, Northeast Electric Power University, Jilin
The State Key laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, DalianSchool of Civil Engineering and Architecture, Northeast Electric Power University, Jilin
Chen H.
Bi C.
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机构:
The State Key laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology, DalianSchool of Civil Engineering and Architecture, Northeast Electric Power University, Jilin
Bi C.
Gao J.
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h-index: 0
机构:
School of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering, Jiangsu University of Science and Technology, ZhenjiangSchool of Civil Engineering and Architecture, Northeast Electric Power University, Jilin
Gao J.
Bi, Chunwei (bicw@dlut.edu.cn),
2018,
International Research and Training Center on Erosion and Sedimentation and China Water and Power Press
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